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I enjoy your writing very much.

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Thanks Alan.

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This is wonderful. I now have an extra reason to love the European goldfinch: which I have yet to see here in Portugal, though I know they are abundant! Can you recommend any books on Christian symbolism? I’m collecting ideas for an art project and am in the brainstorming/research phase! I’m looking at “Saints, Signs, and Symbols: The Symbolic Language of Christian Art” by Hilarie and James Cornwell. Thanks!

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They're seed eaters, so you mostly see them in places with lots of mixed seed-bearing species and some tree cover, so the countryside. And most often late in the summer when the seeds become more abundant. They especially love teasel seeds.

I'm looking for books myself.

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I was in Ravenna for 2 days looking at mosaics in the Neonian baptistery, Basilica of San Vitale, Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo, mausoleum of Galla Placidia. I was stunned by numerous birds, animals, flowers, trees and plants depicted in the mosaics. Not only do they harken to a paradise lost, but they are symbols of purity, fidelity, etc. I’m in Perugia now and just visited the National Gallery which has an exhibit of Perugino’s works. I saw amazing tempera paintings on wood panels.

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Oh, I LOVe the Perugia gallery. I used to go just to stand in front of the Perugia altarpiece. And tht giant Umbrian crucifix! Also the Pintorichio altarpiece! Also, it had a bunch of the stuff from our museum in Norcia after the earthquake for safekeeping, so it was like visiting friends.

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I’m in Perugia till Monday, then Gubbio for 2 days, then Assisi 3 days, Siena and Val d’Orcia for a week. Any must see masterpieces in these or nearby locations? I trust your advice.

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Gosh, you are right in our neighbourhood.

Of course Assisi is jammed with stuff - mostly in the Basilica, but there's also San Damiano that's definitely worth a look, and the basilica of St. Clare - which is right in the centro that has the famous San Damiano miraculous crucifix and other excellent Romanesque and early Italo-Byzantine painting.

After that I'd suggest getting right out of Asissi and getting back on the train for one stop further on (from the Perugia direction) and getting off at Spello. It's not the very peak of their flower season yet, but it's always lovely, and you will find there the famous home of many v. important Pintoricchio works, including the glorious Baglioni Chapel frescoes (only 3 euros) and in the church of Sant'Andrea another magnificent Umbrian Gothic crucifix and a Pintoricchio altarpiece that will boggle your mind. (Make sure to keep in mind Italian closing hours in the afternoons. You don't want to arrive at 12:30 and find everything closed for three hours.) https://www.comune.spello.pg.it/turismo/le-opere/

After that, I'd strongly suggest the Duomo of Spoleto, another three or four stops on the same train line - with its incredible cycle of apse frescoes by Fra Filippo Lippi.

https://www.duomospoleto.it/

Of course, it's a bit out of the way, but a full day's trip or more to Orvieto is worth reorganising a holiday schedule around. The Duomo, with its Sienese Gothic architecture, alabaster windows and cosmatesque is worth it all by itself, but most people go for the medieval wall frescoes and the baptistry with the famous Last Judgement by Signorelli, that influenced Michelangelo's treatment in the Sistine chapel.

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cappella_di_San_Brizio

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And you'll love Gubbio. I almost moved there after the earthquake. There's a very nice (novus ordo) monastery of nuns close by I'd love to spend more time with.

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